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Editing & Converting RAW images 

               

In the past two years,  I've been using Photoshop Elements, UFRaw, &
Canon's Digital Professional Solutions to process my RAW images.

I found PE to be excellent, but unfortunately I lost my copy of PE in a
recent computer crash. UFRaw became unusable for some unknown
reason (white balance correction stopped working properly), and with
upgrading to Gimp 2.8.2,  I couldn't re-install UFRaw without tinkering
with the underlying code for UFRaw. Latterly I've been using Canon's
DPS with good results (though tweaking the shadow areas in a RAW
image wasn't as good as my previous results with using PE).

As regards Canon's Digital Professional software, if you have
a Canon camera that will take RAW images, then packaged with
the camera should be a CD-Rom including the DPS software.

After downloading it onto your computer, you will be able to edit the
RAW images you've taken, and also convert them to .jpg format
(which involves some compression and permanent slight loss in
quality of the image).

Over the years, I have lobbed numerous jpg photos, which I've
over-exposed. If I had taken the photos as RAW images (plus/minus
jpg photos), I would have been able to correct the exposure, and so
would have been able to keep the image. Taking RAW images is 
especially important, if you're taking photos at a family wedding …
you only have one chance of getting it right.

RAW image files are huge – about 25 MB each with my Canon 5D
Mark II camera, so you'll need to use 8-16 GB camera memory cards
As I've said earlier, you get what you pay for with memory cards, so
if you're covering a fast-action event, you'll need top quality memory
cards with a high writing speed … e.g. the top of the Sandisk range.

The following image is a composite image of “before & after” … before
& after I tweaked it, using DPS.
I deliberately over-exposed and
reddened the dahlia image, while I was taking it, for demonstration
purposes. Then I opened up the RAW image in DPS, and tweaked
both the exposure compensation (brightness) and the white balance
(which is the colour temperature of the image)..


dahlia photo

I thought you might like to have a look at a few screen-shots of how this
software works.  After opening up the software and then opening up the
folder of photo(s), you will then see the RAW image and the jpeg image
of the same photo (that is, if you'd set your camera up to take both 
image types)...

raw converter 1

You then click on the RAW image to open it up, and then press Ctrl + T,
to open up the toolbox …

flower image
                        click on image to see a larger version


You can then adjust the brightness (the exposure compensation)
by moving the slider,
and you could also increase the sharpness
of the image up to a value of 10. The default value
for sharpness
is 2.

raw converter 3
                             click on image to see a larger version


You can also change the white balance (colour temperature) of the
image, using the (fine) Tune … you click on the dead centre of the
circle and move it about, until you reach the colour (temperature) you
want..

raw converter 4
           The circular adjustment area for fine tuning the white balance
                         ...
click on the image to see a larger version


You could delete the toolbox now, and then press Ctrl + D, to convert
the RAW image to a jpeg one, and to save it.
You have to remember to change the title of the jpeg image slightly
(I add a letter “a”), to avoid going over the old jpeg image, unless
you wish to. This will now be saved in your image folder (or somewhere
else of your choice).

menu to save image
                           Options menu for saving the image


Here's my last image to show you ...


raw converter
                    Edited image saved with a slightly different name


I've found an excellent YouTube video with a lot more helpful info about
how to use this software ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcl5nHRARuc




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©  John Hollins 2009

Page updated on 07/03/13

Since setting up this website, I have found a web design website with a similar name. This
website is completely independent, and was originally set up on a non-profit basis, to be used by
members of the University of the Third Age. The U3A is an educational charity.